Spring is the ideal time to spruce up your lawn. After a long winter, you can easily see where any bald, bare, or thin patches exist, as well as where weeds or fungus may be taking over. Fortunately, there are easy ways to set your lawn to rights!
The pH of your soil has a direct impact on the health of your lawn. We can test your soil to determine the pH or you can purchase a simple kit to do this. We recommend a small handful of dry soil taken from a depth of 3 inches to get the most accurate reading. At a pH of 6.8-7.0 nutrients are most readily available to turf grasses, and beneficial microorganisms are more active to decompose thatch and keep the soil structure healthy. If your pH is too low or too high, consider amending the soil as needed to help bring it to a more desirable level.
On established lawns that you are not overseeding, apply a fertilizer with crabgrass control now. Jonathan Green Crabgrass Preventer products can be applied with or without separate fertilizers. Reapply Jonathan Green in early to mid-June for the second germination of crabgrass. Remember, crabgrass seeds start to germinate when the soil temperature reaches 50-58 degrees. Concern Weed Preventer, which contains corn gluten, is an organic alternative for crabgrass control on an established lawn. On newly seeded lawns and those seeded in late fall or during the winter months, use Jonathan Green Crabgrass Preventer plus new seedling fertilizer to control crabgrass. You will need to reapply in four weeks or whenever the manufacturer’s instructions indicate. Proper applications will keep your new lawn crabgrass-free.
If you are planning to seed a new lawn or overseed an existing lawn, it is best to seed as early as possible. It is important to get seed germinated and growing before trees begin to leaf out and usurp more of the soil’s moisture and nutrition. New leaves will also block sunlight from the grass seed. This is especially true in more heavily shaded areas. Keep the area moist at all times until the roots of grass seed become established, then you can gradually decrease the frequency of watering. The new grass can be mowed when it reaches a height of about three inches. We recommend Jonathan Green Grass Seed. We have a variety of blends to suit your particular lawn conditions.
Rejuvenating a Weak Lawn
Your lawn cannot live without air, water, and nutrients, but decaying material matted down between grass blades can smother even the healthiest-looking lawn. This decaying material is called thatch, and when a thick layer of thatch builds up, water and fertilizer may run off instead of penetrating the soil. Aerating and dethatching can help rejuvenate a lawn by restoring passageways to the soil. Late spring is an excellent time to dethatch cool-season grasses. Thatching rakes can be used, or you can use a metal rake to remove thatch by hand.
To check for grubs try pulling up a handful of grass. If it gives up easily, you may have grubs. Dig down, check for curled white larvae in the soil. If present, use Bayer Grub Control to destroy these root-eating insects. Reapply in the fall when Japanese beetles relay their eggs in the soil. If you have routinely had problems with other insects, opt for products specifically targeted for those pests to ensure effective control.
A lot goes into having a lush, healthy lawn, but if you take the appropriate steps to rejuvenate your lawn in spring, you’ll be rewarded with thick, healthy, resilient turf to enjoy from early spring until snow flies again.